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St Mary’s St Martin’s St Agnes Bryher Gugh Samson

Photo by Canopy Falls on Unsplash

The Isles of Scilly are a remarkable archipelago of low-lying, subtropical-feeling islands lying around 45 kilometres off the tip of Cornwall, England, comprising five inhabited islands, St Mary’s, Tresco, St Martin’s, St Agnes, and Bryher, alongside dozens of smaller uninhabited islets and rocks including Samson, Annet, and the numerous skerries of the Western Rocks and Norrard Rocks.

St Mary’s
St Mary’s Des Blenkinsopp (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Warmed by the Gulf Stream, Scilly enjoys Britain’s mildest climate, allowing the famous subtropical gardens of Tresco Abbey to flourish and supporting a globally significant flower-growing industry that once shipped early spring daffodils to markets across mainland Britain, giving the islands a floral trade that, at its Victorian and Edwardian peak, dominated the local economy for months of every year.

History

St Mary’s, the largest and most populous of the islands, is home to the archipelago’s only town, Hugh Town, and contains within its own boundaries several smaller tidal islets that connect to the main island at low water, including Toll’s Island, Taylor’s Island and Newford Island. Tresco, the second largest, is largely privately managed and home to the celebrated Abbey Garden, established in the 1830s on the site of a former Benedictine priory and now home to more than 20,000 plant species from around the globe, many of which could survive nowhere else in Britain outside this uniquely mild archipelago.

Toll’s Island
Toll’s Island Des Blenkinsopp (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Island life

St Agnes, the southernmost permanently inhabited island in the whole of the United Kingdom, is linked at low tide to the smaller island of Gugh by a sandy tombolo, while Bryher’s rugged, Atlantic-facing Hell Bay stands in dramatic contrast to its sheltered eastern shore facing Tresco. St Martin’s, the northernmost of the inhabited islands, is known for its red-and-white-banded daymark and for the flower farms that still operate along its eastern fields, one of the last remaining working reminders of Scilly’s once-dominant bulb-growing industry.

St Agnes
St Agnes Des Blenkinsopp (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Wildlife

Beyond the five inhabited islands, Scilly’s uninhabited islets and rocks form some of the most important seabird habitats in southern Britain. Annet, a designated bird sanctuary closed to public landing during the breeding season, supports one of the largest colonies of Manx shearwaters and storm petrels in England, while Samson, evacuated in the 1850s, preserves the abandoned cottages and field systems of its former islander community, now reclaimed by bracken and grazed only by visiting sheep. The scattered rocks of the Western Rocks and Norrard Rocks, though largely indistinguishable from the water beyond their individual names, have claimed numerous ships over the centuries, their treacherous waters responsible for one of the worst disasters in Royal Navy history.

Annet
Annet Michael Earnshaw (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

The islands’ clear, shallow turquoise waters and white sand beaches have earned frequent comparisons to the Caribbean, drawing visitors seeking a uniquely mild and unspoiled corner of England, while the surrounding waters, treacherous with hidden rocks, have claimed numerous historic shipwrecks, including the 1707 disaster that killed Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell and nearly 2,000 sailors when four Royal Navy warships struck the Western Rocks in fog and darkness, a catastrophe that directly led to the creation of the Longitude Prize and, ultimately, to the development of the marine chronometer that transformed maritime navigation.

Scilly is administered as its own unitary authority, distinct from the rest of Cornwall, reflecting its unique character, remoteness, and long history of semi-autonomous governance under a succession of lease-holders, most notably the Dorrien-Smith family, who have managed Tresco under a long lease from the Duchy of Cornwall since the 1830s. The islands’ economy today rests on a combination of tourism, fishing, and a much-reduced but still active flower-growing trade, alongside a small but resilient farming sector adapted to the archipelago’s sandy, wind-exposed soils.

Visiting

Accessible by ferry from Penzance or by air from Land’s End, Newquay, and Exeter, the Isles of Scilly remain one of the most distinctive and beloved island groups anywhere in England, a place where fifty-some named islands and countless further rocks and skerries combine to form a single, tightly interconnected archipelago unlike anywhere else on the British coastline.

Bishop Rock
Bishop Rock Martin Tester  (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Further west still, beyond even the Western Rocks, stands Bishop Rock, home to a lighthouse first lit in 1858 and once recognised by Guinness World Records as the smallest island in the world to have a building on it. Successive lighthouses on this remote outcrop were repeatedly damaged or destroyed by Atlantic storms before the current granite tower was completed, a lasting testament to just how exposed and hazardous this westernmost extremity of England has always been for passing shipping. The archipelago as a whole is protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, its combination of subtropical gardens, seabird colonies, ancient field systems, and treacherous outer rocks giving Scilly an ecological and historical richness entirely disproportionate to its modest total land area.

The biggest islands in Isles of Scilly

By area (acres)

  1. 1 St Mary’s 1,626
  2. 2 Tresco 734
  3. 3 St Martin’s 586
  4. 4 St Agnes 366
  5. 5 Bryher 331
  6. 6 Gugh 124
  7. 7 Samson 94
  8. 8 Annet 54
  9. 9 St Helen’s 49
  10. 10 Teän 40

By population (people)

  1. 1 St Mary’s 1,723
  2. 2 Tresco 175
  3. 3 St Martin’s 135
  4. 4 St Agnes 85
  5. 5 Bryher 84
  6. 6 Gugh 3

Every island in Isles of Scilly

Annet Island No. 19 Not yet collected Saltwater Annet Isles of Scilly Annet, known in Cornish as Anet meaning “kittiwake,” is the second-largest of the roughly fifty uninhabited Isles of Scilly, lying a kilometre… Island No. 782 Not yet collected Saltwater Bishop Rock Isles of Scilly Bishop Rock is a skerry off the British coast in the northern Atlantic Ocean, marking the westernmost point of the Isles of… Bryher Island No. 26 Not yet collected Saltwater Bryher Isles of Scilly Bryher is one of the smallest inhabited islands of the Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, England, with a population… Island No. 53 Not yet collected Tidal Burnt Island Isles of Scilly Burnt Island is a small, uninhabited island in the Isles of Scilly, Cornwall, covered in thrift and long grasses, and linked to… Island No. 800 Not yet collected Saltwater Castle Bryher Isles of Scilly Castle Bryher is one of the Norrard, or Northern, Rocks in the Isles of Scilly, lying close to Bryher and covering a… Crim Rocks Island No. 778 Not yet collected Saltwater Crim Rocks Isles of Scilly Crim Rocks are a small group of uninhabited islands within the Isles of Scilly, England, forming the most westerly part of the… Island No. 54 Not yet collected Saltwater Crow Island Isles of Scilly Crow Island is a small, uninhabited islet within the Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, England, lying within or near… Island No. 779 Not yet collected Saltwater Eastern Isles Isles of Scilly The Eastern Isles are a group of twelve small, uninhabited islands within the Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, recognised… Island No. 64 Not yet collected Saltwater English Island Isles of Scilly English Island is one of the twelve small, uninhabited islands making up the Eastern Isles within the Isles of Scilly, off the… Island No. 555 Not yet collected Saltwater Gilstone Isles of Scilly Gilstone is one of the uninhabited skerries within the Western Rocks, a group in the south-western part of the Isles of Scilly… Island No. 98 Not yet collected Saltwater Gorregan Isles of Scilly The Western Rocks are a group of uninhabited skerries and rocks in the south-western part of the Isles of Scilly, off the… Island No. 99 Not yet collected Saltwater Great Arthur Isles of Scilly Great Arthur is part of the Great, Middle, and Little Arthur group within the Eastern Isles , a cluster of twelve small… Island No. 791 Not yet collected Saltwater Great Crebawethan Isles of Scilly Great Crebawethan is one of the larger islands within the Western Rocks, a group in the south-western part of the Isles of… Island No. 101 Not yet collected Saltwater Great Ganilly Isles of Scilly Great Ganilly is one of the Eastern Isles of the Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, England, with a maximum… Great Ganinick Island No. 100 Not yet collected Saltwater Great Ganinick Isles of Scilly Great Ganinick is one of the Eastern Isles , a group of twelve small uninhabited islands within the Isles of Scilly off… Great Innisvouls Island No. 102 Not yet collected Saltwater Great Innisvouls Isles of Scilly Great Innisvouls is one of the Eastern Isles , a group of twelve small uninhabited islands within the Isles of Scilly off… Gugh Island No. 77 Not yet collected Tidal Gugh Isles of Scilly Gugh is sometimes described as the sixth inhabited island of the Isles of Scilly, though it is usually considered together with the… Island No. 103 Not yet collected Saltwater Guther’s Island Isles of Scilly Guther's Island is one of the smaller islands within the Eastern Isles , a group of twelve uninhabited islands in the Isles… Island No. 104 Not yet collected Saltwater Gweal Isles of Scilly Gweal is one of the Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, England, and is the largest of the seven Norrard… Island No. 105 Not yet collected Saltwater Hanjague Isles of Scilly Hanjague is one of the twelve small, uninhabited islands making up the Eastern Isles within the Isles of Scilly, off the coast… Island No. 545 Not yet collected Saltwater Hellweathers Isles of Scilly Hellweathers is one of the uninhabited skerries within the Western Rocks, in the south-western part of the Isles of Scilly, an area… Island No. 342 Not yet collected Saltwater Illiswilgig Isles of Scilly Illiswilgig is a small, uninhabited islet in the Isles of Scilly, part of the scattered archipelago that lies off the far south-western… Island No. 144 Not yet collected Saltwater Little Arthur Isles of Scilly Little Arthur is part of the Great, Middle, and Little Arthur group within the Eastern Isles , a cluster of twelve small… Island No. 793 Not yet collected Saltwater Little Crebawethan Isles of Scilly Little Crebawethan is one of the smaller islands within the Western Rocks, a group in the south-western part of the Isles of…